Yesterday, eight of us made a trip up Longyearbreen, the glacier above Nybyen where we are living. The way up was hard going- it is almost impossible not to sweat when hiking up a glacier- but we sure got our exercise for the day. The views back down the valley were not great as visibility has decreased in the last few days, but were enough to see the town spread out below us. To start with we followed the compressed scooter tracks as these made for easier walking, but at points we had to branch off and flounder through the deeper snow. I made good use of the tracks of the guys who walked at the front!
After a false hope (finding a partial igloo with an Australian flag on it!) and a further trudge in the deeper snow, we eventually located this year's entrance to the ice cave in the upper part of the glacier. Donning head torches we took it in turns to sit down and slide in, making good use of a rope to get us down the almost vertical section at the start. Good job there was a rope otherwise we would still be down there! I struggled with my hands getting cold as my gloves got wet so had to do a rapid glove change and have help warming my fingers.
The cave was slightly smaller in width than that on Scott-Tunerbreen but we could still walk upright in a fair proportion of it. Some section were easier as a bum slide, and others required crawling under huge bunches of icicles but it was all part of the fun. Phillipp even discovered that a line of icicles can make a good musical instrument; that is until they break off and a note is missing!
We ate lunch sat on the floor of the cave as it was warmer than the glacier surface, and promptly stuck to the walls as our body heat melted the surface slightly. For a while we turned all the torches off to see how dark it was, and put it this way, we could have sat there forever and our eyes never got accustomed to the dark!
When we reached an area where crampons were needed to carry on, we turned back and retraced out steps back out of the cave. Heading down the glacier was much easier and we kept up a good pace. At the snow covered morraine we sat down and slid the rest of the way which was good fun. We arrived back hungry and tired but the day was worth it.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Longyearbreen
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Scott-Turnerbreen Ice Cave and Snow Pits
Our first course excursion was to Scott-Turnerbreen, a glacier about an hour away by scooter. This time, I was a passenger and so got to enjoy the scenery as we drove, but also was the one who got their leg stuck under the scooter when we tipped over! Thankfully it was just bruised.
We arrived at the glacier and found ourselves in the first group into the ice cave. After a short slide in and a ladder down, we were in the main meltwater channel, twisting and turning along inside the glacier. Above our heads were some amazing ice formations, and plenty of icicles. The majority of the time we could walk along, but parts were shallower and so we were on our knees or sliding along on our bums! The cave was amazing, not like anything I have seen before.
Next, we had to dig a snowpit to get some data for mass balance calculations later on. The pit we dug was about 1.3m deep, 1m wide, and 2m long. Big enough for the three of us to hide out of the wind. Digging kept us warm, although I have to say I probably did the least digging!
The Old Mine
On the first Sunday here, we climbed up to the disused mine above Longyearbyen. The going was pretty hard as it was so steep you had to bash footholds in with your boots. However, it gave us a much better view of the town spread below us. We also got up close to some reindeer.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Snow Scooter Training
Today was the snow scooter training. And what a stunning day it was to be out. Crystal clear and permanently dawn-like, the sky was pink and pale blue, and nothing but snowy peaks around us.
As luck had it, we were the first group out, but this meant we had the training in the afternoon. So all we were told is this is the throttle, this is the brake, and move your bum to keep balance and aid steering!
So we kitted up until we looked almost like starfish (as all the little kids here do). I wore 3 merino tops, merino pants, fleece pants, a fleece, a down gilet and then a thermal snow scooter suit. On my head I wore a fleece neck tube, a balaclava-type face mask, a helmet and googles. On my hands were liner gloves and scooter mittens, and on my feet 2 pairs of socks and huge snow boots. I was the only recognisable person as I had a blue face mask and everyone else a black one.
Next we clambered onto the 600cc Yamaha snow scooters and were told 'go'! So we turned the key and once the engine was warm triggered the throttle and headed off. All around the uni is sheet ice so we set of slowly (in fact rather erratically as it is hard to keep even pressure on the throttle at low speed with huge mittens on!). I was pretty nervous but soon realised that although not exactly graceful, I was moving along alright. It got even better when I found out at our first stop that the handles are actually heated and there was no need for completely frozen hands.
We travelled along the frozen fjord, which was covered in snow in places, but ice in others. Driving across the ice felt, and sounded, strange but I soon got used to it. Ahead we could see snowy peaks tinged pink as we followed the wavy line of the red back lights of the scooters ahead. Everywhere you looked was snow; no buildings, no trees, no nothing. We passed two dog sled teams and it just felt so surreal being there. The only thing that I didn't like was the constant noise of the engine in my ears.
At minus 22 and driving at around 45 kmph (up to 60 at times), you can imagine how important it was to have every inch of skin covered. Even so, one nostril froze solid, and I did ponder for a moment whether it was possible for all beathing holes to freeze up! The face mask had small holes in for breathing, but these soon filled with frozen breath so you had to blow hard to clear them again! My nose was the coldest part of me, which got so cold at one point I couldn't tell if it was still covered up, especially because the mittens made it hard to distinguish things properly.
We learnt to drive on the flat first, then tilted to the side while driving along a slope (bums off the side!!) and then up and down hills. I liked going uphill best and the engine was powerful enough not to ever need full throttle. The longer we drove the more happy I became, but like diving, I think this will take me a while to feel completely comfortable doing. And I really appreciate what Alex said when he learnt to drive a motorbike, that at first you think you are whizzing along, until you look down and realise you are only travelling at 30 kmph!
Photos to come as I am still in uni waiting for the 'Friday Gathering'. However there aren't many as it was exceedingly hard to use the camera and I was concentrating on the driving, plus the battery was dead within minutes. I may have to keep the battery close to my skin and somehow dig it out when we make stops. In massive mittens.
Not that the pictures could do it justice.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Rifle Training
Today was the first safety training day, so after a couple of lectures we headed out to the shooting range. The drive up afforded stunning views, but was a little precarious driving up a steeply winding ice covered road with no railings and a large drop in a fair few places. We even went past the global seed store- a little triangle with a door into the mountainside.
And so we reach my first big disappointment out here. I couldn't do the rifle training. Mentally that is. I managed with the blanks but as soon as I had the live ammo my brain frazzled. I got confused when firing the first round so stuck up my hand for help, but the instructor was helping elsewhere. I was left lying in the snow, freezing cold, with loud shots going off all around me. That was the end of it for me, but the instructor was very sweet and understanding and apologised for not being with me sooner to sort out the problem with my rifle. I am extremely disappointed and felt I let myself down, but maybe it is a good thing that I cannot be responsible for others' lives if a polar bear comes at us! As a consolation prize I am still allowed to use the flare gun to try to scare a polar bear away if the situation arose.
I shall leave you with some pics of the view from the rifle range, the uni at 3pm and a baby reindeer on the way home.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
First Day
Today was my first real day here. It started with a cold but surprisingly ok walk into the University in the semi-darkness at 8.30am. The uni is modern and stereotypically scandinavian inside. We then did some exploring of Longyearbyen. I managed to purchase a card reader, hence the photos appearing online, and also a set of studs for my boots to make walking on the ice easier. I even joined the library and found a Bill Bryson in the motley collection of English books. There are a few small shops here, but they seem to sell everything you need.
The walk back was colder, and my left cheek felt rather uncomfortable. It was -15 today, but is supposed to reach -27 tomorrow so I shall need a proper face mask. And a good aim....
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
First Impressions
And so I have arrived!
It seems like a parallel universe.
We flew in over a semi-frozen sea, with the first glimpses of Svalbard as snow covered peaks tinged pink in the last of the day's sun, and it was before 2pm! It was stunning. I have never seen so much snow and so little development. The coal power station on the way into Longyearbyen from the airport mars it a little, but you soon forget about that when you reach the town. The accommodation I am staying in is a fair walk from the University and shops etc but has a lovely view of the mountains across the water at the end of the valley on the way in. So far I have seen little in real daylight as it got dark shortly after arriving, but the days will get longer and longer as my time here goes on.
I decided to be proactive and gather as many bodies as possible to go straight to the supermarket, and a group of us have organised to cook dinner together tonight. Everyone is really friendly, and I even found a very helpful Canadian who helped us get our macs online, hence me being able to blog already. I have even found a cooking 'buddy' to share food with to keep costs (and heavy backpack loads) down. Food is hideously expensive, but not as bad as the £5 sandwich and £2.50 bottle of water I was forced to purchase at the airport. Thank goodness for the muffin you gave me mum otherwise I may have starved today!
The barrack I am in has smaller rooms than the other I have been into, but wins hands down on the access- ours has steps, the other is so iced in you have to use a rope to climb up the ice sheet to get in the door!! I have a very saggy bed, a large desk, wardrobe, smaller table, comfy chair, bookcase... and even a special rifle lock in the cupboard! I have yet to meet the person I share a bathroom with but I only have to share with the one person which is good.
We have already seen a few reindeer but it was too dark to get a pic. We have seen no other wildlife, but the little kids walking home looked so cute in their snowsuits and high-vis vests. There was even a baby being pulled in a little carriage behind a skidoo! I can't wait to get the camera out tomorrow. The safety course starts on Thursday so I have a whole day to get my bearings.
I shall keep you posted.
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