Snow Scooter Training

From the scooter

Morning Light

Today was the snow scooter training. And what a stunning day it was to be out. Crystal clear and permanently dawn-like, the sky was pink and pale blue, and nothing but snowy peaks around us.

As luck had it, we were the first group out, but this meant we had the training in the afternoon. So all we were told is this is the throttle, this is the brake, and move your bum to keep balance and aid steering!

So we kitted up until we looked almost like starfish (as all the little kids here do). I wore 3 merino tops, merino pants, fleece pants, a fleece, a down gilet and then a thermal snow scooter suit. On my head I wore a fleece neck tube, a balaclava-type face mask, a helmet and googles. On my hands were liner gloves and scooter mittens, and on my feet 2 pairs of socks and huge snow boots. I was the only recognisable person as I had a blue face mask and everyone else a black one.

Next we clambered onto the 600cc Yamaha snow scooters and were told 'go'! So we turned the key and once the engine was warm triggered the throttle and headed off. All around the uni is sheet ice so we set of slowly (in fact rather erratically as it is hard to keep even pressure on the throttle at low speed with huge mittens on!). I was pretty nervous but soon realised that although not exactly graceful, I was moving along alright. It got even better when I found out at our first stop that the handles are actually heated and there was no need for completely frozen hands.

We travelled along the frozen fjord, which was covered in snow in places, but ice in others. Driving across the ice felt, and sounded, strange but I soon got used to it. Ahead we could see snowy peaks tinged pink as we followed the wavy line of the red back lights of the scooters ahead. Everywhere you looked was snow; no buildings, no trees, no nothing. We passed two dog sled teams and it just felt so surreal being there. The only thing that I didn't like was the constant noise of the engine in my ears.

At minus 22 and driving at around 45 kmph (up to 60 at times), you can imagine how important it was to have every inch of skin covered. Even so, one nostril froze solid, and I did ponder for a moment whether it was possible for all beathing holes to freeze up! The face mask had small holes in for breathing, but these soon filled with frozen breath so you had to blow hard to clear them again! My nose was the coldest part of me, which got so cold at one point I couldn't tell if it was still covered up, especially because the mittens made it hard to distinguish things properly.

We learnt to drive on the flat first, then tilted to the side while driving along a slope (bums off the side!!) and then up and down hills. I liked going uphill best and the engine was powerful enough not to ever need full throttle. The longer we drove the more happy I became, but like diving, I think this will take me a while to feel completely comfortable doing. And I really appreciate what Alex said when he learnt to drive a motorbike, that at first you think you are whizzing along, until you look down and realise you are only travelling at 30 kmph!

Photos to come as I am still in uni waiting for the 'Friday Gathering'. However there aren't many as it was exceedingly hard to use the camera and I was concentrating on the driving, plus the battery was dead within minutes. I may have to keep the battery close to my skin and somehow dig it out when we make stops. In massive mittens.

Not that the pictures could do it justice.

Rifle Training

At the Rifle Range

targets

Today with wind chill it was -32! Needless to say it felt a bit chilly. We walked in to uni with only our eyes showing looking puffed up like birds in winter. I discovered that eyelashes freeze together and feel rather odd, and when I blinked would stick briefly to the fleece scarf up on my cheeks. If your nose isn't covered the inside of that freezes up to which feels odd but is fine until you step inside...then a tissue is needed immediately to prevent flooding! Thank goodness for buying the studs for my boots- the place has turned into a giant ice rink which looks weirdly like glass in the twilight.

Today was the first safety training day, so after a couple of lectures we headed out to the shooting range. The drive up afforded stunning views, but was a little precarious driving up a steeply winding ice covered road with no railings and a large drop in a fair few places. We even went past the global seed store- a little triangle with a door into the mountainside.

And so we reach my first big disappointment out here. I couldn't do the rifle training. Mentally that is. I managed with the blanks but as soon as I had the live ammo my brain frazzled. I got confused when firing the first round so stuck up my hand for help, but the instructor was helping elsewhere. I was left lying in the snow, freezing cold, with loud shots going off all around me. That was the end of it for me, but the instructor was very sweet and understanding and apologised for not being with me sooner to sort out the problem with my rifle. I am extremely disappointed and felt I let myself down, but maybe it is a good thing that I cannot be responsible for others' lives if a polar bear comes at us! As a consolation prize I am still allowed to use the flare gun to try to scare a polar bear away if the situation arose.

I shall leave you with some pics of the view from the rifle range, the uni at 3pm and a baby reindeer on the way home.

going home

fjord view

the ever present moon

unis in the afternoon light

baby reindeer

First Day

Today was my first real day here. It started with a cold but surprisingly ok walk into the University in the semi-darkness at 8.30am. The uni is modern and stereotypically scandinavian inside. We then did some exploring of Longyearbyen. I managed to purchase a card reader, hence the photos appearing online, and also a set of studs for my boots to make walking on the ice easier. I even joined the library and found a Bill Bryson in the motley collection of English books. There are a few small shops here, but they seem to sell everything you need.

The walk back was colder, and my left cheek felt rather uncomfortable. It was -15 today, but is supposed to reach -27 tomorrow so I shall need a proper face mask. And a good aim....

First Impressions

And so I have arrived!

It seems like a parallel universe.

We flew in over a semi-frozen sea, with the first glimpses of Svalbard as snow covered peaks tinged pink in the last of the day's sun, and it was before 2pm! It was stunning. I have never seen so much snow and so little development. The coal power station on the way into Longyearbyen from the airport mars it a little, but you soon forget about that when you reach the town. The accommodation I am staying in is a fair walk from the University and shops etc but has a lovely view of the mountains across the water at the end of the valley on the way in. So far I have seen little in real daylight as it got dark shortly after arriving, but the days will get longer and longer as my time here goes on.

I decided to be proactive and gather as many bodies as possible to go straight to the supermarket, and a group of us have organised to cook dinner together tonight. Everyone is really friendly, and I even found a very helpful Canadian who helped us get our macs online, hence me being able to blog already. I have even found a cooking 'buddy' to share food with to keep costs (and heavy backpack loads) down. Food is hideously expensive, but not as bad as the £5 sandwich and £2.50 bottle of water I was forced to purchase at the airport. Thank goodness for the muffin you gave me mum otherwise I may have starved today!

The barrack I am in has smaller rooms than the other I have been into, but wins hands down on the access- ours has steps, the other is so iced in you have to use a rope to climb up the ice sheet to get in the door!! I have a very saggy bed, a large desk, wardrobe, smaller table, comfy chair, bookcase... and even a special rifle lock in the cupboard! I have yet to meet the person I share a bathroom with but I only have to share with the one person which is good.

We have already seen a few reindeer but it was too dark to get a pic. We have seen no other wildlife, but the little kids walking home looked so cute in their snowsuits and high-vis vests. There was even a baby being pulled in a little carriage behind a skidoo! I can't wait to get the camera out tomorrow. The safety course starts on Thursday so I have a whole day to get my bearings.

I shall keep you posted.

Step One...Oslo

I have begun my journey! Today I have made it as far as Oslo.

The day started grey and misty and stuck in a queue on the M4, but I was met by the beautiful sight of snow and fir trees with black ribbons of roads winding between them on the descent into Norway. I had failed to realise it would be snowy here, as well as minus six but it is so hot indoors it is almost a relief when you step out into it!

We arrived in Oslo airport at 4.20pm local time and within an hour I was in the centre of Oslo. The fifteen minute train journey has to be the most expensive I have ever taken though! Realisation dawned that we had no map, and so therefore no idea how to get to the hostel, but this was soon sorted at the tourist information office. The hostel is very well located, reasonably clean etc but is on the fourth floor accessed by a peculiar lift with no side. The room is on the sixth floor (no lift!).

We have spent the evening walking around the city and trying to find dinner that we could afford. We walked up to the palace, down to the waterfront... and discovered that no-one else seems to walk (or drive) around Oslo in the evening- it was practically deserted. I have already taken a tumble on the ice but seem to have survived, but there seems little hope for me in Svalbard if I'm already falling over here.

I would upload some pictures but as I have left my card reader at home...oops.

Off to bed now as an early start tomorrow.